Poor Little Rich Gays in Umbria – Astonishing Sight-Seeing Venture – Blasted by Sudden Joy

Monday 16th August 2010

There’s so much to tell. The Multis are here and the villa is zinging with fine wines. Last week’s  4 euro supermart bottles seem to have disappeared.

My own mania in Umbria is for the perfect sformato – it’s a rare dish – as well as Muriel Spark’s grave, the Prada factory shop and out-of-the-way Raphaels.

Poor Little Rich Gays rarely rest. We always have a plan.

But that’ll all have to wait.

Yesterday we actually went sight-seeing. Marcus Cargill, England’s leading clock restorer, has a guide-book of all things. As you know, Poor Little Rich Gays don’t want to be milled in with other tourists, resent buildings and artworks they can’t buy and, as artists themselves, of their own lives, see Raphael etc. as competition. There’s also the earnestness question. We like to be light.

But Marcus is an outstanding craftsman. He looks at an important Gothic fountain and thinks: How would I do this? Somehow or other it all connects and the next time he’s restoring a top Rothschild clock there’ll be an impact.

In fact I haven’t been quite telling you the truth. We did do some clandestine trippery work last week – Gubbio, Cortona, Sansepolcro to see Piero della Francesca. Very fine, but these places are just a little spoiled nowadays and I was perhaps dragged down by the Anthony Mottram situation. There’s been another set-back.

Then yesterday we went to Perugia. Nobody there, glorious clear, fresh, brilliant, post-storm day, Perugia still a real place, not a tourist destination, up high with stunning views, full of noble pink-flushed buildings for some reason never aligned with each other. We studied the famous fountain outside the cathedral with its enchanting, economical Old Testament scenes and graceful rhythmic design. Hard to believe it is early Medieval. Marcus read from the guide book. No-one else was doing this.

Without warning joy unadulterated.

Sansepolcro

Sansepolcro

Interesting Doggies Seen in Italy

Interesting Doggies Seen in Italy

Gubbio - Almost There

Gubbio - Almost There

Cortona - Not Quite What it Was

Cortona - Not Quite What it Was

Posted Monday, August 16, 2010 under Adrian Edge day by day.

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